After a couple of years of collecting, playing with, learning about, and restoring machines I have boiled it down to a couple of domestic machines that are the best for my leather work. Not that there aren't many other machines that could and would fit the bill it's just that I like the function, sound, and reliability of these two machines.
No they are not on the table they are in the cabinet!
In the cabinet (specially reinforced to take the load) are the Nora and the 360. Along with the machines on the shelf above are all of my heavy duty threads. The machines come right down onto the table and back away as soon as I'm done; I love open work benches. I keep both of the foot controls plugged in and hung an a hook below the table. All is good in my little shop.
At one point I thought I would never settle down on any particular machine; deciding that each new machine was now the greatest one I had ever used. But alas I have. These two machines together with the Juki 246, the Cowboy 8810, and the Singer 29 - 4 make they up the 5 machines that I use in shoe making. Not that there aren't a couple of shoe-only machines that I still want, but that is another story.
For an automotive reference I guess I had to add what I hope is something I can afford to own someday; a 65 Chrysler Imperial.
Chrysler scored a coup by hiring Elwood Engel away from Ford, where he had designed the 1961 Lincoln Continental.(Wikipedia)
05.11.19
Over time these two machines have evolved; I strictly go with my gut and my hand, which ever machines FEEL right and are the MOST reliable, MOST forgiving, and look good too!
The Designer I had replaced the 360 which replaced the 332.
The 1473 replaced the 1471 which replaced the Nora
NONE of the machines needed replacing these are the Creme of the vintage crop, you cannot go wrong with any of them and don't NEED any beyond the mechanical sweetness of the Nora and the 332.
Do you have any issues with pressing the pedal and the needle not moving up and down? I have oiled the sewing machine and still nothing. It will move if I do it manually.
ReplyDeleteHi Kara, which machine specifically? In general a lot of machines have a hard time overcoming the resistance aright at the piercing point of the material, and a hand help is often necessary.
DeleteYou know there is an issue if the top speed is really slow, that's a different story. Fiddle around a little more and let me know more details.
Good luck, Tom
can you help me with a Necchi Nora? I cannot figure out to do the blindhemstitch as it is shown on this video:-
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeVnPWjYqYw&list=FLqYNec8LD3c_63WAsWrEGVA
at 4.30 he starts to explain and show a perfect blindhem stitch, but I cant get mine to do this stitch with any of the cams, I am sure I have the full set, can you help me? amateursewing @ gmail . com
can you help me with a Necchi Nora? I cannot figure out to do the blindhemstitch as it is shown on this video:-
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeVnPWjYqYw&list=FLqYNec8LD3c_63WAsWrEGVA
at 4.30 he starts to explain and show a perfect blindhem stitch, but I cant get mine to do this stitch with any of the cams, I am sure I have the full set, can you help me? amateursewing @ gmail . com
The video is hard to follow but he takes out the blind stitch cam and then starts straight stitching.
DeleteYou need a cam, they will be on ebay, if you are not in a hurry wait for a good price.
Good luck, Tom
I have all the set of 8 cams but cant get mine to make the blindhem stitch, I really need to know how he achieves this stitch.
ReplyDeleteI don't have any cams so can use only straight & ZZ. but, what I believe is that in order to get the cam to function you have to set the needle position to the left. with the lid open you can see that the roller / follower next to the cam is only engaged when the needle pos. lever is to the left. You can see it in the video too.
Delete