tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42665984238288801022024-03-26T12:03:07.332-07:00MI Vintage Sewing MachinesTo me they are not Sewing Machines, they're Machines that Sew.
Soon after I began making shoes I realized that I had to learn to sew leather.
The next question then was what type of machine.
As a result I have another hobby... Vintage sewing machines.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger86125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-25197439194902055892020-08-12T05:19:00.006-07:002020-08-12T05:23:09.397-07:00Singer 201 (1951)<p> Been looking for a 201 for years; found this one at a local estate sale </p><p>These machines in Domestic use will be in good running order in 2120 too!<br /></p><p>The 201 is popular for all good reasons, this was the period of some of the finest machining capabilities at Singer and around the world. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aUoh-DcBvas/XzPdbVjNKEI/AAAAAAAAE8k/fSyKRYWE-nwQpKXbBsnxV5dt_M9XOdmmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Singer%2B201%2B%25283%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aUoh-DcBvas/XzPdbVjNKEI/AAAAAAAAE8k/fSyKRYWE-nwQpKXbBsnxV5dt_M9XOdmmwCLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/Singer%2B201%2B%25283%2529.JPG" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T62tbyLdg9Y/XzPdbZx9BqI/AAAAAAAAE8o/HoAMFTMhx0AUDGZajbypfO1E6kt8mF57ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Singer%2B201%2B%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T62tbyLdg9Y/XzPdbZx9BqI/AAAAAAAAE8o/HoAMFTMhx0AUDGZajbypfO1E6kt8mF57ACLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/Singer%2B201%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="512" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>The 201 is more Industrial like that any thing else they made, except for the potted motor.</p><p>The potted motor is the drawback to all singers in that it is the minimum power possible motor, that being said you will be fine for anything other than hard thick leather.</p><p>Shown are the serious gear set that makes the 201 the amazing and quiet machine that it is. </p><p>The system is a "Rotary Hook" instead of the more common and less smooth "Oscillating Hook"<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uK3NEmnDIlo/XzPdu8xQBOI/AAAAAAAAE84/q7j1dN83t1QStcVZk5-L9yM_5IxeMeXkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Singer%2B201%2B%25287%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uK3NEmnDIlo/XzPdu8xQBOI/AAAAAAAAE84/q7j1dN83t1QStcVZk5-L9yM_5IxeMeXkgCLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/Singer%2B201%2B%25287%2529.JPG" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CarYNbkhkU8/XzPdvIz-tiI/AAAAAAAAE9A/veJWxecnbH0q1iUuuLoHVifQEBPQ0a_LACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Singer%2B201%2B%25288%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CarYNbkhkU8/XzPdvIz-tiI/AAAAAAAAE9A/veJWxecnbH0q1iUuuLoHVifQEBPQ0a_LACLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/Singer%2B201%2B%25288%2529.JPG" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MxJvbkv5mKE/XzPdur7rG3I/AAAAAAAAE80/ZdE-bqUaIAklxdFJudcJAuqwjBRK2uR-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Singer%2B201%2B%25285%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MxJvbkv5mKE/XzPdur7rG3I/AAAAAAAAE80/ZdE-bqUaIAklxdFJudcJAuqwjBRK2uR-ACLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/Singer%2B201%2B%25285%2529.JPG" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LvM-JfKdtOo/XzPdu7XAebI/AAAAAAAAE88/QHY2kp6dkYs_ytaUPsXDgaTtywBw9tG5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Singer%2B201%2B%25286%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LvM-JfKdtOo/XzPdu7XAebI/AAAAAAAAE88/QHY2kp6dkYs_ytaUPsXDgaTtywBw9tG5wCLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/Singer%2B201%2B%25286%2529.JPG" width="512" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-32750099943999719662019-05-11T07:59:00.000-07:002019-05-11T10:02:29.099-07:00Pfaff 1473 (Late 1980s)After several years of happy use with my <a href="https://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/07/pfaff-1471-1983.html">1471 </a>I really wanted the upgrade to the 1473 or 1475<br />
Don't know the diff between those two but the diff between the 71 and 73 is mostly styling and a large increase in decor stitches.<br />
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The 1471 is an excellent machine, I use it exclusively for lightweight leather; from 1mm - 1.5mm.<br />
The 1473 will do the same job for me if all goes well.<br />
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My career long devotion to Human Factors is also in play; all of the
flat buttons have been replaced from the 71 with nice proud of surface
buttons. These are esier to see and feel. The color choice is also more inviting.<br />
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On initial trials the needle threader needs adjustment and it needed new AA batts<br />
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It runs smooth and quiet. I think I am totally sold on IDT and won't consider anything without it.<br />
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Made in "West Germany" is one of the vintage aspects of this machine that seems to intrigue people; not sure if all 73s were pre 1990 but I think the 7000 series machines are all "German." Now that I look at them the 7000s have many details from the 1400s.<br />
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It is a pretty machine and does every thing one could ask.<br />
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So now the "<a href="https://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2012/10/the-stable-necchi-nora-and-pfaff-332.html">Stable</a>" looks like this:<br />
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1473 for heavy work, <a href="https://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/06/husqvarna-viking-designer-i-1998.html">Designer I</a> for light duty work, and the Cricut Maker for labels and patterns! All stored away in the cabinet above one of my work stations.<br />
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Returning to my Automotive references the curvaceous lines of the 60s made way for the hard edged styling of the 80s.<br />
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I the classic American "Boat" mode the <a href="https://jalopnik.com/here-are-ten-of-the-best-80s-cars-on-ebay-for-less-than-1687510159">Continental </a>has it all!<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-1852090094686736492018-05-23T07:50:00.001-07:002018-07-14T05:26:50.666-07:00Inlay - Overlay Custom Roller Foot for the Necchi NoraI started on my 1st attempts at Leather Inlay - Overlay and didn't have a roller foot for any of my flatbed machines.<br />
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I chose the Nora because of her extreme reliability and the number of spare feet I had to modify.<br />
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I made one with two rollers; one on either side of the needle but this was unsatisfactory.<br />
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The (what I call) "parallax" that occurs on every sewing machine is especially noticeable on small tight curves. By parallax I mean the difference between where the material pivots from under the presser foot verses where the needle is actually striking.<br />
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So I kept at it until I was able to create a center wheel foot.<br />
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I like the center wheel because regardless of whether you turn left or right around the corner the minimal change in stitch length is the same.<br />
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So far the results are positive, I can stay between 1 - 1.5mm from the edge of the work piece.<br />
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06-2018<br />
Updated version:<br />
The little teeth got in the way of stitching around corners so I had to make a second version of the spring steel guide<br />
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This was just a change to the spring steel presser guide, the roller is unchanged <br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-27485419798849804322018-05-12T08:16:00.000-07:002018-06-05T16:19:50.954-07:0015-91 Clone "Fashion" (1953)OMG just another amazing 15-91 clone.<br />
With the motor belt removed it can spin about 4 times around with a single spin; these old masterpieces of manufacturing precision are a pleasure to work on.<br />
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A very nice condition machine with just a couple of chips, needed almost no cleaning but required rewiring of the motor plug.<br />
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Sews beautifully, needed a little bobbin spring tension adjustment.<br />
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When I saw that it was a "Fashion" brand I had to have it!<br />
Says 1953 on the made in Japan tag.<br />
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Accessories and manual too. <br />
Always like to have one of these on hand; so many newbies relate to them better than the complex machines, so I have a range of machines to offer. <br />
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Manual is great! It has the sales date on the Official Guarantee page<br />
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The 20 year Guarantee was up 55 years ago.<br />
Strangely enough this machine was purchased was 22 years to the day after the bombing of Pearl Harbor<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-72349855304988078982018-05-06T07:23:00.000-07:002018-05-06T07:23:36.121-07:00Necchi Lelia 513 (1961)My latest find is the Lelia 513.<br />
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A very nice condition girl that was nearly completely locked up.<br />
It took a while to free up the main works and a lot of time to free up the ZZ pivots. I found references to the needle pivot being commonly frozen; this one was Super frozen.<br />
Got the manual and accessories too but sadly had to remove from the cabinet and so have no case for it. <br />
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Lelia is one of the supreme examples of fine manufacturing of the mid 20 cent. All parts are painted separately and assembled with care to avoid paint chipping.<br />
The reputation for precision is very evident here and is sited as the root cause for the freezing up issue. In the early days of plastics (60s-70s) the freezing (think Viking horrors) are a different type of cause.<br />
So frozen ZZ, very stiff crank shaft was not all. One thing they did not do well was making a solid provision for oiling the motor bearings, if you have one of these machines with the original motor you should consider getting a drop of oil at the two ends. I believe this was a considerable problem for this machine and will cause slow sewing, low power, and replacing the bearing is not going to be easy. <br />
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Note the plastic buffer between the body casting and the motor mount keeps the paint from scratching. and the little piece of felt to isolate the motor mount from the casting too.<br />
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This machine had a really hard time starting up and would get a little slower as it heated up. <br />
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The only way to get to the bearing is to open up the motor but definitely do NOT do this unless you must.<br />
I always pull the commutators out file them down, blow it out, and reassemble once I get this far. <br />
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I pulled the front cover off (the part I don't recommend doing) because the shaft seemed loose, only then did I see that the front bearing was bone dry.<br />
Got a little oil on it and reassembled it; it's working much better now.<br />
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I found that the hand wheel was very tight to the main casting and so I gave it 0.003" clearance with a feeler gauge: I think this helped.<br />
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Lastley went ahead and cleaned every tooth on the thumb wheels because it deserved it!<br />
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I think this machine will make it to 100 years old.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-60080134091968325072018-03-08T11:19:00.000-08:002018-03-08T11:46:58.245-08:00Pfaff 332 (1950s)My 2nd 332 for the purpose of "rescue and resale"<br />
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It had a couple of problems<br />
1 - The motor belt was very loose.<br />
I've made this fix several times; you have to make an extension to the idler pulley bracket because it doesn't have enough travel<br />
2 - The motor made a horrible noise when running<br />
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So the guys on the FB Pfaff site gave me some ideas about the motor (none of them applied) but when I went in to look at it again I found that the two main screws holding the motor together from front to back were loose? Once tightened the motor was as good as new.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-14939800029981455192018-03-08T08:17:00.002-08:002018-08-02T19:21:51.802-07:00Necchi Logica 592 (1980s)I sold my <a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/03/kenmore-sensor-sew-1980s.html">Sensor Sew</a> with great regret but I was after the real deal... The Logica 592<br />
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The 592 I think is the primo version; it has both the speed control slider and the needle position switch. A couple of the things that the SensorSew does not have. <br />
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<i>As soon as you go for a computerized machine you have to at the minimum have needle up-down position.</i><br />
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The Logica has needle up-down and motor speed control <br />
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It was a risky ebay purchase <b>and of course it had a machine killing broken part in it</b>.<br />
It has several unfortunate damages but I will pick a parts machine when I find it.<br />
Came with original manual all of the attachments and cover.<br />
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The broken bit is probably very common but is exactly the type of part I can fabricate.<br />
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This is the part that raises the feed dogs out of the Quilting or down position.<br />
Reading online it seems that if you force the up-down lever when the cam is out of position you can break it.<br />
The steel insert is there to slide on the plastic cam so I decided to make the whole thing out of steel<br />
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I digitized into cad but got a key dimension wrong so had to make a second one, I will go back to the cad model and correct it.<br />
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With a quick test it seems to be working perfectly<br />
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No more (eye roll) free quilting though <br />
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Update 04.20.18:<br />
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Love using this thing however, it <u>does not have</u> left/right/center settings for the needle! (least I haven't found it or a way to fake it) Necchi really dropped the ball on this one, I don't think the <a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/03/kenmore-sensor-sew-1980s.html">SensorSew </a>does either maybe you have to work with the adjustable feet?<br />
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It does however have a better up/down needle position than either the <a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/07/pfaff-1471-1983.html">Pfaff 1471</a> or the <a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/10/bernina-1230-late-1980s.html">Bernina 1230</a> in that the needle goes up or down WHEN you hit the button instead of waiting for another cycle.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-25424998635521709052017-10-15T07:53:00.000-07:002017-10-15T07:53:08.854-07:00Bernina 1230 (late 1980's)After a year of looking and thinking about it I pulled the trigger on an Eba y 1230<br />
This is part of my "looking for the perfect machine" project, and as mentioned before the 80's is where it has come together for me. <br />
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Of course it needed service when I got it and it may be that I felt more comfortable with it because I have the best service Tech about a 1/2 hour away at the <a href="https://www.myfabricaffair.com/">Fabric Affair </a><br />
Rich is great; a collector restorer and refixit guy that loves sewing machines.<br />
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He asked me why the 1230?<br />
As I have mentioned in other posts I have a huge background in what we at Chrysler called Human Factors, I was tutored by the great Howard Estes and many years of product development. <br />
Human Factors now may also include HMI, Human Machine Interface. With the omnipresent "touch screen" HMI includes this difficult task.<br />
We all have a touch screen or two that we are not fond of, they are fine for running electronics BUT when it comes to running a machine with it they are behind several systems. How would you like to ride a bike with a touch screen?<br />
So simply; the 1230 has a computer that is controlled by physical buttons, buttons that have dimension, move a noticeable distance when depressed, have a feeling when depressed, and a light when they are activated. So in direct opposition is the Viking Designer 1 which I love but it has none of this "feedback" from the screen. "Haptics"attempts to mitigate this problem by creating a actual "thump" and a noise (thud) when activated and is in place in my Cadillac touch screen (although poorly) to mitigate the effects the problem; the problem is not knowing that you actually hit the button WITHOUT LOOKING AT IT.<br />
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The buttons are great but the dials are the real mark of excellence.<br />
The dials combined with the LED "temperature" style bars are the "home run" part of the machine.<br />
SOO easy to understand and use. The trick is to have the dial on the right side of the bar so I can see the bar, AND to have the side of the dial closest to the bar move in the same direction as the bar, hard to describe, easy to understand. This is what Human Factors is all about. The stitch width works in the same friendly way. <br />
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So Kudos to the experts at Bernina back in the day, they really knew there stuff and set out to do it right.<br />
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Got everything but the manual with it.<br /><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-22269638805880510242017-08-26T07:42:00.000-07:002018-03-08T08:29:50.657-08:00Necchi BU Mira (1954)I think I have had all of the 1950' series Necchi's at this point?<br />
<a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/04/necchi-bu-miranda-1959.html">Miranda</a><br />
<a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2012/06/neccchi-nora.html">Nora</a><br />
<a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/05/necchi-lydia-544-1956-straight-stitch.html">Lydia</a><br />
<a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2012/01/necchi-bu-nova.html">Nova</a><br />
<a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2013/10/necchi-bu-supernova-1956.html">SuperNova</a><br />
<a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2018/03/necchi-logica-592-1980s.html">Logica 592</a> 80s <br />
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This one cam out of a cabinet and needed both the full "all metal bits off" cleaning as well as new wiring from plug to pedal. Fortunately I had this handy <a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/05/necchi-bu-wiring.html">BU wiring diagram </a>to work to.<br />
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Super saturated in 63 year old oil/grime it was a tough nut to crack.<br />
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Nice to have the original motor with the date and the hefty 1.1amp stamped on it.<br />
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Unfortunately this green paint job did not survive nearly as well as my grey <a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2012/06/neccchi-nora.html">Nora</a><br />
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She was frozen to the point of about a half turn only but the most fun is getting them unstuck. I made a custom crank handle out of a spare lock knob so that I can have better leverage while doing the loosening / break-in phase<br />
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No case on this one but it came with this unusual accessories box<br />
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The "Press Here" box<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-81473533753488408812017-08-22T17:20:00.001-07:002017-10-15T17:23:54.634-07:00Bernina Virtuosa 150 QEFound this little gem at an Estate sale up north while staying at Crystal lake<br />
Again I have become very interested in the early and 2nd generation computerized machines, with my background in CNC machining I have an affinity towards motor controllers and believe that the over concern regarding a computer board failure is just that.<br />
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I think the Virtuosa is a lesser and more rare version of the Artista, but it is still a Bernina<br />
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A handsome machine, classic late 90's<br />
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During clean up I found thread wrapped around the counter weight crank and all the joints involved with the take-up lever, that was a new one!<br />
Got the knee lift working with a DIY steel rod it makes such a difference in operation, did a small upholstery leather project very well<br />
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Another endearing feature, if they even intended it is the thread cut-off on the left side of the machine. About 90% of the time the cut-off holds both ends of the threads up in place, this is really nice because you know where both threads are and starting the next stitch line is like having someone holding the threads up for you<br />
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Made in Switzerland, that's all we care about!<br />
It has a Stainless Steel free arm top cover; it will NEVER show signs of wear with that!<br />
Reverse switch at the head <br />
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Very heavy...<i> stop complaining about heavy</i>; heavy is good!<br />
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The wall plug is extra long, the foot pedal has a winder feature on the bottom, nice<br />
The foot pedal also has the needle up-down feature, just press with your heel and the needle goes down, press again and it goes back up.<br />
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Without any effort the basic controls are extremely easy, I used it for a little repair project and just love the sound, it is an oscillating hook but Bernina does it different than everyone else, seems hard to beat. <br />
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The small LCD screen may look a little lost on the front face <u>but it's all you need</u><br />
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Look at this...<br />
<ul>
<li>Needle left - right with two buttons close by </li>
<li>Needle up - down one button for that</li>
<li>Stitch width with two buttons for that</li>
<li>Stitch length two buttons for that</li>
</ul>
From a Human Factors standpoint it could hardly be easier; I spent a large part of my Advanced Vehicle Engineering career doing what's called Human Factors, the practice of how people interface with machines, sometimes refereed to as HMI or Human Machine Interface.<br />
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All in all there are a large number of nice options<br />
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Has a separate motor for the bobbin winder<br />
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Needle position left - right and ZZ are controlled by a separate servo for super accurate positioning<br />
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It came with nothing but the No.3 foot, manual, and a flat bed conversion<br />
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<span id="goog_1385493379"></span><span id="goog_1385493380"></span><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-10345494528321308102017-08-04T18:28:00.002-07:002017-08-08T07:13:04.258-07:00DIY Vintage Sewing Machine BaseHere is my tried and true method for vintage machine bases.<br />
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If you are not experienced with woodworking this will be hard to follow.<br />
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I'm and old Draftsman and this is how we work.<br />
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The result is not up to woodworking standards but is acceptable and easy.<br />
It is a one hour project not including the three cotes of finish <br />
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Every machine is slightly different under the edge of the casting and this design method will likely require some chiseling or knifing of the edge where the casting interferes with the new base.<br />
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The handle holes are nice and should be put in before you assemble the parts.<br />
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At the lumber yard you'll need a 1 x 3 x 6 foot piece of Poplar (don't use better if you are inexperienced) and don't use Pine.<br />
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A 1 x 3 has actual dimensions of 3/4" x 2-1/2 or 0.75" x 2.5"... perfect for our job<br />
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The 2-1/2" should get every machine out there just high enough so that the casting feet are nicely clear of the table, (except for the Singers 101 and the 201, they need a full 3")<br />
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Draw this out on a piece of graph paper as shown<br />
Assume you are going to triple check every dimension and go ahead and make a cardboard cut-out of the plan view to check the fit.<br />
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No amount of extra drafting, drawing, measuring, and thinking, will go to waste for this project, but you know this if you make patterns for sewing.<br />
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To Start:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Measure the length and width of your flat-bed</li>
<li><br /></li>
<li>The inside of your wooden base is between 1/2" and 3/8" LESS THAN these two dimensions</li>
<li><br /></li>
<li>On your drawing mark these two dimensions everything is based on these two dimensions</li>
<li><br /></li>
<li>For the Front Piece you add 3/4 + 3/4 + Inside Length</li>
<li><br /></li>
<li>For the Back Piece the length IS the Inside Length</li>
<li><br /></li>
<li>For the Sides you add 3/4 <complete id="goog_1113553017">+ </complete>Inside Width</li>
<li><br /></li>
<li>The result is a minimum of end grain showing without getting into complex joinery</li>
<li><br /></li>
<li>Glue and nail, screws are so big they will require wood plugs.</li>
<li>Check for squareness (measure across corners) if its not square tap, squeeze, or push till it is. If you don't it'll dry out of square and you will be very sorry. </li>
<li><br /></li>
<li>Bevel and sand all the edges and finish; I use three coats of Minwax water based Polycrylic, one to lift the grain and two to finish it. Sand 120 then 220, and 220 between coats. </li>
</ul>
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<br />Yeah!<br />
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To mount the machine I use 4 dollops of clear silicone sealer so you can lift the machine either the by the head or by the base.<br />
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<b>FYI the design changes if you have to lift the machine to change the bobbin like the Vigorelli</b><br />
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<b>The only difference is to add a second Back Piece, lengthen the Sides 3/4" and (this is the hard part) locate and countersink the hinges from a cabinet. </b><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-56867156257815785212017-08-03T06:06:00.001-07:002017-08-05T05:40:14.148-07:00Capital Window-Matic (Brother 1950s)The team at Brother way back then must have been quite something. Like any product manufacturing company on the rise they had a mission and by the 60s had become a premier maker of machines.<br />
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Finally we get some styling and the beginnings of some more considered HMI added to the machine. HMI is Human Machine Interface and in this case the super vague 15-91 style froward - reverse lever in replaced with the classic Brother window gauge.<br />
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Another outstanding 15-91 machine could sum it up because that is all it is. Manufacturing guys really like making what they made yesterday and so the incremental changes we see in the Japanese imports are minuscule and usually very well executed.<br />
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Another "all metal parts off" restore that went pretty smooth but the stamped, masked, and painted logo did not go into the SuperClean, the paint that is used in these masking operations is vary thin and comes off with a single dip into a high level cleaner. I use Pine-Sol and a tooth brush.<br />
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A close up of the window system, not easy at all to reassemble, don't do it if you are not competent in repairs. The dial does what you think; it moves the needle and changes the stitch length BUT it only pushes the 15-9 style lever up and cannot push it down (you'll see when you try it) again, its a very early attempt at improving the system. <br />
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I'll say here that "all metal parts off" restore is NOT for the newbie, you will end up with a pile of parts that a machine you can't use. If you have no experience with machine repair then I suggest you start out very slow and do not willy-nilly disassemble anything.<br />
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The reason that I do "all metal parts off" is because I really get annoyed at the little edge of oil grime between the metal
parts and the painted casting; this is so difficult to get at that the
only way is to remove parts, though you don't have to. Removal also makes the cleanup of those parts easy, the trade-off is the reassembly know-how and lots of time.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-71671839005067763182017-08-03T05:35:00.003-07:002017-08-05T06:34:49.663-07:00Universal Sewing Machine (1950s) CloneAnother 15-91 clone and a damn good one.<br />
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As you may have discovered some of us really like the "Clones Age" machines from Japan.<br />
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Its that free wheeling, noiseless, hand cranking that gets to you. And too the outstanding leather ability of these machines. <br />
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This one is in pretty happy shape, I traded it for a machine I was so tired of, and now I have an inexpensive machine to pass along to a newbie.<br />
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It was a complete "all metal parts off" restore, and again I take them off and drop them into a tall covered jar of SuperClean over night, remember any paint on these parts will come off so don't do this with your 1970s Singers. Most of the parts come out so clean that you just rinse them off dry them, (you need an air compressor) oil and reinstall. <br />
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The real time consumer is the tension disc, spring reset, and test sewing, plan on an hour.<br />
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So the whole process is usually about 4 hours. <br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-31326942158147806102017-07-05T06:31:00.001-07:002017-07-05T06:33:25.246-07:00 Kenmore 385 "30 Stitch" <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The Kenmore 385.1884180 is a Janome made machine with their outstanding rotary hook system, I am very impressed with this machine; wish I had stumbled across them earlier. <br />
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It is a: durable, reliable, clean, quiet, and very smooth running with utility and decorative stitches <br />
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My stitch test was easy - easy a fun machine.<br />
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You know those Kenmore's when they got it right they really got it right, I think this is one of them.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-25002286748246662202017-07-05T06:17:00.001-07:002018-03-22T08:01:49.703-07:00Pfaff 1471 Creative (1983)Finally got a 1471, after being so impressed with the 1069 I wanted to add the IDT to see what all the hype was about. I am really in love with needle position and so I'm researching all the 80's machines where this function. <br />
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Its a super cool machine with the electronics arranged for easy use.<br />
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Its got:<br />
IDT<br />
Needle position.<br />
More stitches<br />
Complete electronic controls<br />
Electronic reverse <br />
And that vintage Hewlet Packard LED red read out!<br />
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These early electronic machines have a tendency to switch back to a default numbers when you go from one stitch to another instead of remembering what your last setting was, like the <a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/03/kenmore-sensor-sew-1980s.html">SensorSew</a>. <br />
If you were straight stitch at 3.5 length (default 2.5,) go to ZZ at 4 width and 1 length (default 3.5 - 1.5,) then back to SS you have to reset you length, if you go back to ZZ you have to reset those again too.<br />
Weird thing about the reverse; it makes one more stitch in the original direction before executing the other direction <br />
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Anyhow, these are nice machines, they seam to have a punching power that is very refined; the motor noise doesn't change regardless of what its going thru.<br />
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The IDT is a good addition, I need more experience with it to give a real opinion.<br />
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I do a lot of medium weight leather and this guy walks right thru it; rotary hook can't be beat.<br />
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The reverse and slow stitch are at the stitch are at head and now that I've got used to the transverse presser foot lift lever I like it better than the rear mount version; although you can't use it with your left hand that is worth the trade.<br />
The electronic bobbin empty sensor is really nice, with the blinking red
light you may have a foot or so left in the bobbin so you can begin to
plan your exit strategy<br />
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During my early stitching work out with this guy (it is German) small bits of plastic were falling around the machine, it kept happening for a while so I opened up the top cover and determined that the IDT cam follower rubber wheel was designating.<br />
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It is a bearing with a rubber tire on it, I need to find this part!<br />
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03.18.18<br />
Started using the 1471 for sewing thin leather (2mm-ish)<br />
The IDT is absolute for this work, often with a standard flatbed the leather is very difficult to move with just the feed dogs, the IDT is very reliable.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-35646630623914021822017-06-23T07:35:00.003-07:002017-09-06T17:55:35.971-07:00Husqvarna Viking Designer I (1998)OK not so vintage but I got this with a half dozen other machines from Darrin.<br />
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So on my continuing quest for the perfect machine I am drifting towards the 80s.<br />
To me the perfect machine would combine the cast iron "goodness" from the 60s and the super cool functions from the 90s, maybe some one could make such a thing.<br />
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The Husqvarna Viking Designer I is one of the earliest touch screen machines made and has some amazing features which I like. I have to admit that at one point I began to think that this thing was a privilege to use!<br />
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I have become partial to needle position (up / down), I like left - right - center, and a few good utility stitches.<br />
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I just took it off of Craig's List again after doing another alteration; this thing is really amazing I discovered how best to use the fix. It auto-starts with the fix button lit up if you want to end with a fix you have to hit the button before you stop that way it makes the fix an stops with your foot on the pedal. To top it off you can then hit the auto cut-off which drags the top thread underneath and cuts it off at about 3/4" (don't know why it doesn't tie the knot for you?)<br />
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The thing is very strong and has a lot of features that are with us today.<br />
It does not seem to be phased by leather, I have gone off of Viking machines and won't buy one for any reason because they are kind of light duty and always seem to be touchy on leather.<br />
This one is different so I'm going to give it a chance.<br />
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It does ask that you sew a little differently than you did with old Betsy but you don't have to.<br />
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Presser foot down with the foot pedal is pretty cool, thread cut-off is excellent, the "Fix" or mini back-tack is nice. All of these functions are at your service on the stitch head.<br />
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FYI the thread cut-off actually pulls the top thread down and leaves you with about 15mm of each thread to tie off Amazing!<br />
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I don't care for the bobbin winder so I use my off-machine bobbin winder for them too. The bobbins wound on the Designer I always look lumpy and uneven, not that they won't work but this is one of those "things" that I can't get past. <br />
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Had it serviced by Husqvarna Viking Technician at the <a href="http://www.vikingsewinggallery.com/?locations=641">Ultimate Sewing Place in Livonia</a>. That was a great experience because he let me sit and watch and learn while he worked.<br />
As I suspected this machine has a run time meter inside the software and so we discovered that it has a grand total of 2 hrs sewing time and 16 hrs of embroidery time on it. <br />
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The reverse switch was bad so the control board on the far left was replaced, he did a general service and software update too. It was great to see the machine internal structure considering the covers are hard to get off and I won't be going in there anytime soon; it's a giant die-cast aluminum truss.<br />
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Did some pillow making with it while up north, I like it, need the zipper foot. Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-32445108941868780712017-06-19T11:08:00.001-07:002017-06-19T11:08:19.796-07:00Kenmore 385.1884180 (1980's)The Kenmore 385.1884180 is a Janome made machine with their outstanding rotary hook system<br />
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It is a: durable, reliable, clean, quiet, smooth running low mileage machine with utility and decorative stitches <br />
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Comes with case and accessoriesUnknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-3306602302155744232017-06-19T11:06:00.000-07:002017-07-06T07:20:18.309-07:00Cheap Sewing Machine Rant: what beginner sewers should considerSo it has become clearer to me that the unfortunate new-comer to sewing may get their 1st experience clouded by the "let's get cheap NEW machine" syndrome.<br />
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By cheap I mean anything under a $1000, it is shocking how bad some of these new machines are when compared to the Vintage choices.<br />
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Your basic $250 machine is so cheap it can hardly sew a shirt, and if it does youv'e worn it out.<br />
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My point is that for $50 $100 $150 $250 you can get a Vintage machine that will take you into the journey of sewing in a manner that allows you to focus on the work and not the machine.<br />
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Here is a documented reference: My<a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2011/07/singer-99-24.html"> Singer 99-24</a> came with the original sales receipt for $90, That machine cost Daddy the equivalent of $1010 in 2017 dollars. (I bought it for $12.50, $1.10 in 1947 dollars) <br />
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Now don't run out and buy a Craigslist $20 machine, instead, look for someone who knows someone that has a machine cleaned and tuned and ready for use. It takes me 2 - 6 hours to get one ready to sell and I know a little bit about them.<br />
I guess that means your local repair guy or many of the EBay honest brokers. And again don't go for the cheapest but go for what you think will best suit you and your needs.<br />
Plan a month of searching minimum and catalog the options and style that interest you. <br />
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Beginning is better at your Grandmother's level of machine, all those bells and whistles are really appreciated when you have a couple of years and many projects under your belt.<br />
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I just love to sell someone their 1st machine, when I get em' cheap I sell em cheap.<br />
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Good luck and keep sewing!<br />
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Tom<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-57772437055310226492017-06-05T08:09:00.003-07:002017-06-05T08:09:48.775-07:00Regency 8141 (1964)Am refining my range of machines that I like to have on hand to sell to the newbies at a good price.<br />
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The Regency fits well; it is from that perfect period in the 60's before the MBAs took over and during a time when precision manufacturing was king.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0BnwmHvWaoM/WTVwyiyur8I/AAAAAAAADn4/pYb0uEsbje8eJsHQUVMlIOY9Ma19MBPgwCLcB/s1600/IMG_0869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1095" data-original-width="1435" height="244" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0BnwmHvWaoM/WTVwyiyur8I/AAAAAAAADn4/pYb0uEsbje8eJsHQUVMlIOY9Ma19MBPgwCLcB/s320/IMG_0869.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Trying out my new background drape for photog.<br />
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Styling is an odd mix of straight edge and bulbous forms; a combination of 50's and 60's design vocabulary's.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wB7bofpgNp0/WTVxq1nQZBI/AAAAAAAADoA/RYrkQXbA6GcbEnvmTAgDXMwyVumXCt5UwCEw/s1600/3460833_2005c685c9_low_res.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="350" data-original-width="790" height="141" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wB7bofpgNp0/WTVxq1nQZBI/AAAAAAAADoA/RYrkQXbA6GcbEnvmTAgDXMwyVumXCt5UwCEw/s320/3460833_2005c685c9_low_res.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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A nice stitching machine, quiet, and easy to use.<br />
Tried the button hole function; seems OK but you might need a lot of practice to make flawless.<br />
She's in basically unused condition so was mostly locked up but hums along now!<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aXULAo7SrrM/WTVxdC1uFjI/AAAAAAAADn8/654pMEsOkXgGJaMXBPlLE6vvhxFlamZxACLcB/s1600/IMG_0872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1191" data-original-width="1390" height="274" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aXULAo7SrrM/WTVxdC1uFjI/AAAAAAAADn8/654pMEsOkXgGJaMXBPlLE6vvhxFlamZxACLcB/s320/IMG_0872.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Tan and beige, a familiar combo, shows up everywhere<br />
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She comes with a manual<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GbZciSyIk3M/WTVxyM2VgeI/AAAAAAAADoE/_BLRFxwddIEBV09yDyP4NOzHeCyjpSIoACLcB/s1600/IMG_0880.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1290" data-original-width="862" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GbZciSyIk3M/WTVxyM2VgeI/AAAAAAAADoE/_BLRFxwddIEBV09yDyP4NOzHeCyjpSIoACLcB/s320/IMG_0880.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
And the original paperwork<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v4x10Zopl5w/WTVx89PpP4I/AAAAAAAADoI/lTWXH5PNb9MxEmzoSeoqIsbzkNDvcaypwCLcB/s1600/IMG_0882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1504" data-original-width="1561" height="308" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v4x10Zopl5w/WTVx89PpP4I/AAAAAAAADoI/lTWXH5PNb9MxEmzoSeoqIsbzkNDvcaypwCLcB/s320/IMG_0882.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SSjC6gy-hcg/WTVx9IqNXNI/AAAAAAAADoM/72LP9N4-3UMOVa-JjDPzNiaGxZUVgR7eQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1194" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SSjC6gy-hcg/WTVx9IqNXNI/AAAAAAAADoM/72LP9N4-3UMOVa-JjDPzNiaGxZUVgR7eQCLcB/s320/IMG_0883.JPG" width="238" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FiT8D-fzlTU/WTVx9OKM3mI/AAAAAAAADoQ/tLijs8U47B0iec2NjrKEepyQP2oJrhUPQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="1600" height="139" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FiT8D-fzlTU/WTVx9OKM3mI/AAAAAAAADoQ/tLijs8U47B0iec2NjrKEepyQP2oJrhUPQCLcB/s320/IMG_0884.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
$168 in 1964 equals <span style="color: red;">$1,312.64</span> in 2017, hmmm always had to spend real money to a get a good machine.<br />
Bought at our beloved Hudson's downtown. Complete with lesson coupons!<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-61854920365277190452017-05-25T08:15:00.001-07:002018-02-13T07:03:27.910-08:00Necchi Lydia 544 (1956) (straight stitch conversion)Got the Lydia several years ago and with a broken cam-stack and cam-stack gear I just put it in the back<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JhFZVjLuTkA/WSbuGgyGvcI/AAAAAAAADmk/WXeT3QrlLGwT9HQrIKFORxc8ljrLgChXQCLcB/s1600/IMG_3803.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="952" data-original-width="1204" height="252" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JhFZVjLuTkA/WSbuGgyGvcI/AAAAAAAADmk/WXeT3QrlLGwT9HQrIKFORxc8ljrLgChXQCLcB/s320/IMG_3803.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Lydia has the honor of being part of the <a href="https://www.moma.org/collection/works/2627?classifications=any&date_begin=Pre-1850&date_end=2018&locale=en&q=sewing&sov_referrer=collection&with_images=1" target="_blank">MoMA</a> collection; a true exercise in Functional Design.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rQqiJQzLpjg/WSbvosvRELI/AAAAAAAADmw/vBho8AmNZg0mrKxFrsUsdwMYrlH7phcpACLcB/s1600/IMG_3793.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1449" data-original-width="1159" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rQqiJQzLpjg/WSbvosvRELI/AAAAAAAADmw/vBho8AmNZg0mrKxFrsUsdwMYrlH7phcpACLcB/s320/IMG_3793.JPG" width="255" /></a></div>
The failings however were in the new materials that plague many machines in the early plastics replacement days.<br />
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So it has the standard cracked cam-stack and cam-stack gear, after talking to a fellow SM enthusiast who used hers for straight stitch only I decided to make mine into a straight stitch too.<br />
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The entire cam mechanism is a module that loads from the hand wheel end of the machine so it is not too difficult to remove the broken parts.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lwvMYSVpFu0/WSbvpMqoPWI/AAAAAAAADm8/M0WpJUj8eq8Ze2IR20YTUN-6FHrZKoixACEw/s1600/IMG_3795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1320" data-original-width="1576" height="268" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lwvMYSVpFu0/WSbvpMqoPWI/AAAAAAAADm8/M0WpJUj8eq8Ze2IR20YTUN-6FHrZKoixACEw/s320/IMG_3795.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Another problem was the bar across the top of the bobbin case was bent up and so the case would not engage but would spin with the hook.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YM5BDvA-15g/WSbvozvx6TI/AAAAAAAADm8/QY-uPu9Cz1MSbtYHuqDOjxFDqHlR0sS8wCEw/s1600/IMG_3800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1104" data-original-width="1075" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YM5BDvA-15g/WSbvozvx6TI/AAAAAAAADm8/QY-uPu9Cz1MSbtYHuqDOjxFDqHlR0sS8wCEw/s320/IMG_3800.JPG" width="311" /></a></div>
A third problem was also plastics related, the spring tension on the take-up spring is controlled by a set screw in this plastic part which broke out.<br />
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The fix was to drill thru the center pin and tap the hole all the way thru. With a screw on the back side the spring is held fast.<br />
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Has the original pedal<br />
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The removable flat-bed<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l8Nm0TSnMnE/WSb0TfGSDlI/AAAAAAAADnU/6QxgpfQ8UCABCL7pdQzxK0yt_BXk-w5_gCEw/s1600/IMG_3811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1324" data-original-width="1393" height="304" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l8Nm0TSnMnE/WSb0TfGSDlI/AAAAAAAADnU/6QxgpfQ8UCABCL7pdQzxK0yt_BXk-w5_gCEw/s320/IMG_3811.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Case and Manual<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-52695142098948374602017-05-25T07:43:00.001-07:002017-05-25T07:43:44.027-07:00J C Penny 6910There are a plethora of these Dressmaker like machines out there but I haven't seen many free arm versions<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8FQ0BbSin1E/WSbsVVvNauI/AAAAAAAADmU/3B8Icp04viAO8wxon8uOp01_G9LqGK-qgCLcB/s1600/IMG_3812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1195" data-original-width="1326" height="288" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8FQ0BbSin1E/WSbsVVvNauI/AAAAAAAADmU/3B8Icp04viAO8wxon8uOp01_G9LqGK-qgCLcB/s320/IMG_3812.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
This thing had many issues and although it possesses the strong sewing capabilities of the Dressmaker it has some quirks.<br />
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I disabled the Stretch function because it made horrible noises so now its a good runner.<br />
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Had to adjust the feed dogs with a washer different from the one that was already in there.<br />
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In general a cheap workhorse.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-70666112542602436022017-05-09T07:56:00.001-07:002017-07-22T09:37:10.032-07:00Necchi BU - NA WiringAfter a lengthy search I discovered that there were no simple wiring diagrams for the BU series.<br />
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Since the light is one of those 12v things from my 1972 Fiat Spider it requires the transformer to drop the 110v to 12v<br />
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Here are photos of both the Nora and the Miranda.<br />
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I removed the auxiliary cord from both<br />
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The light is chassis grounded so there is only one wire going to it<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xG_-cOarSJo/WRHR0hnMRcI/AAAAAAAADlY/pWGRAnb8gCUJgVI9krfcnn5bOAkuz2ElgCEw/s1600/BU%2BMiranda%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xG_-cOarSJo/WRHR0hnMRcI/AAAAAAAADlY/pWGRAnb8gCUJgVI9krfcnn5bOAkuz2ElgCEw/s320/BU%2BMiranda%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Schematic<br />
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Based on the two machines I have for reference, use only if you have background and / or familiarity with electrical systems.<br />
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I removed the auxiliary outlet on both because the cord was deteriorated.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-76265479330606867352017-05-05T06:57:00.002-07:002018-04-29T07:41:54.681-07:00Pfaff Tiptronic 1069 (1980's)As stated earlier I have been on the quest for the better machine then the <a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2012/06/neccchi-nora.html">Necchi Nora</a>, and also as stated I have become a champion of rotary hook machines.<br />
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My <a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2012/04/pfaff-332.html">Pfaff 332</a> is more quiet than even the <a href="http://mivintagesewingmachines.blogspot.com/2017/04/bernina-830-record-electronic-1979.html">Bernina 830</a> and quiet is good.<br />
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After seeing some reviews and looking over the options on the 1069, 1171 and the like I found one.<br />
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I usually am enamored with each new machine and gush over them, if I think they have potential I put them into service and go with the feel of it... do I love it more than the Nora?<br />
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The 1069 has a number of amazing features, I'll get to them in a minute. The engineering mastery is what has me sold after the features. This is one precision machine; I'm beginning to think that the 80's was a rare time where old and new technologies converged to make machines that included both old school machining expertise and well developed electronics.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sq4TrshFXF8/WQx77Ec4FaI/AAAAAAAADjQ/2DJxgFPC2msCi48402q-xDc0YpNmoHO3wCLcB/s1600/IMG_3653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sq4TrshFXF8/WQx77Ec4FaI/AAAAAAAADjQ/2DJxgFPC2msCi48402q-xDc0YpNmoHO3wCLcB/s320/IMG_3653.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
It includes the minimum F,R,L,R and C, and something I just can't get out of my head; needle position. The switch for that and the high and low speed switch are just above the needle.<br />
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It is a mostly die-cast aluminum machine with just a few plastic covers; the white part is aluminum and the base.<br />
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It had a loud screech when running so I tried to open up the top cover; NOT EASY. I recommend not doing it unless you posses great patience and have experience with plastic covers as I do.<br />
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With that off the front cover comes off. The only thing that was frozen up was the locking knob for the hand wheel; they used a white grease that turned hard and froze the hand wheel to the main shaft.<br />
After prying the hand wheel off I was able to clean out all the old gunk and make the system work again. The lock system is unlike anything I have ever seen; very nice.<br />
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For those of you that would like to look under the hood I'm including these shots.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9y9IwEQi-3U/WQx-917q7HI/AAAAAAAADjc/GJYTymoyVKEGuyKYRiGmkwJqECXD48KbACLcB/s1600/IMG_3636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9y9IwEQi-3U/WQx-917q7HI/AAAAAAAADjc/GJYTymoyVKEGuyKYRiGmkwJqECXD48KbACLcB/s320/IMG_3636.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dgxncp-G_lE/WQx--114PpI/AAAAAAAADjg/KsV6sKVzjG4UxQ0Ra6oYAynMXCESEnv0ACEw/s1600/IMG_3639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dgxncp-G_lE/WQx--114PpI/AAAAAAAADjg/KsV6sKVzjG4UxQ0Ra6oYAynMXCESEnv0ACEw/s320/IMG_3639.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Upper thread tension system<br />
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Super nice take up threading system<br />
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Bobbin winding system<br />
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Motor<br />
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Easy access to the bobbin case (Made in <span class="yshortcuts"><span id="lw_1210765408_0" style="-moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial; -moz-background-origin: -moz-initial; background-attachment: scroll; cursor: pointer;">West Germany) and nice snap on foot system</span></span><br />
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The case is Viking like in that it drops down from the top and the handle comes thru from the machine<br />
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The light is properly positioned<br />
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Flat-bed attached<br />
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Doors open<br />
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Flat-bed second level<br />
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Flat-bed swing away<br />
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1st attempts at sewing are very favorable, excellent slow speed control however, when I put the machine to the table the foot controller cord was way too short??<br />
As an all aluminum machine it can't match the sound of the cast iron beauties and so at high speed it has a sound. <br />
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Then I remembered that it has possibly the only one like it, a take-up reel in the foot pedal!!<br />
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I would never bother showing the cord plug and the foot pedal but Pfaff thought of everything.<br />
the fully retracted foot pedal cord, and the 110 cord goes either way amazing!<br />
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It really is a strong machine, have tried layers of leather and some of the styles, all good so far. Unknownnoreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-21643719962522261132017-04-28T18:36:00.000-07:002017-05-03T16:52:01.957-07:00Necchi BU Miranda (1959)Can anyone make any sense out of these names?<br />
Anyhow found this near perfect condition Miranda with an excellent condition case, manual, and accessories.<br />
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Absolutely filthy with oil varnish, so it required the full disassembly, soaking in SuperClean, and brushing with PineSol.<br />
I have this whole operation down to 5 or 6 hours. <br />
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The SuperClean is perfect for chromed and unpainted parts; it will remove paint and etch aluminum! From experience I know this; the chrome parts need nothing but rinsing off.<br />
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For the all the painted parts I went with PineSol; couple of sprays, wait five minutes and scrub with a very soft scrub pad. To return the shine I like to use TR3.<br />
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Original case with logo on the front.<br />
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The thing with Necchi is the ultra smooth as silk running, this is exactly like my Nora, with a twist of the hand wheel it spins silently. Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266598423828880102.post-25056500572816300392017-04-19T18:05:00.001-07:002017-04-19T18:05:29.720-07:00Singer 15-91 (1951)Thru the great kindness of my cousin I was bequeathed this beautiful Centenial that was my Aunt's.<br />
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I doubt it has seen the light of day since Aunt Darlene passed in 1979.<br />
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It needed the whole "remove all the shiny bits" treatment, and came out pretty nice<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2